Well, Olympic Air has cancelled all flights until May 1st,
so we're going to have to stay another twenty days! (April Fool's Joke.) We had
another opportunity to sleep in and took advantage of it. After breakfast, which is
exemplary at the Grand Bretagne, we headed off for the Ancient Agora. This is where
democracy was begun. It was a center for politics, elections, debates, theater, athletics,
social and religious life, a place to conduct business, meet friends and discuss
philosophy and originated in the Neolithic age (before 3000 BC).
Our investigation of the site, started at the top of a small
knoll at the north side of the Acropolis that overlooks the
broken walls, columns and paving that used to be the Agora and
its reconstructed museum. The first structure we came to as
we strolled through the olive and pine trees was the Naos Ifestou
(Temple of Hephaistos or the Theseion) dedicated to Aphrodite's
husband. It is considered the most well preserved temple in
Athens and was used later on as a church. It is six by twelve
columns wide. Just below it, the trail leads to the agora, the
remains and foundations of many of the original buildings, the
large water clock, fountains, pools, the gymnasium and houses.
The Tholos was a sort of dormitory for the fifty citizens who
served as prytaneis (or council), housed the official weights
and measures for the trades, and was built around 465 BC. It
had ornate Corinthian capitals and
was the center of political activity. The Stoa of Attalus is
completely restored and has become the site's museum. In
addition to the well-labeled statuary set in front, there
are remarkable frescoes inside. It holds a marble kliroterion
with slots for metal nametags that worked like a lottery for
electing officials by dropping white or black marbles. Also
in the museum are payroll tokens, ballots (disks of bronze),
and ostraka (bronze disks with a dent that meant guilty, no
mark and rounded meant acquittal). There was a wide assortment
of pottery from all areas of the country. Shards used as ostraka
(people wrote names of troublemakers on them) suggested that
the council vote to kick certain people out of the community.
Socrates (who stood trial for impiety here and drank hemlock),
Herakles, all the great philosophers from 6 BC to 6 AD had hung
out at the speakers stone. We visited the old gymnasium that
is in the process of restoration, underfoot was a patchwork
of chamomile carpets in bloom (more than 4000 years old). It
is a fascinating site with so much history that one is easily
captivated and can almost hear the murmur of the market, the
philosophers, and the politicians.
We exited over the railway and through the east gate into the
Monostraki district. It has the distinction of being the flea
market area or the best place to buy mementos. We paused for
some cool drinks and pet the local cats as they wandered by
looking for handouts. A couple of guitarists serenaded us as
we basked in the warmth of the midday sun. We were very near
to the Library of Hadrian, a "must see" on Sal's list
of places to go today. This large complex (about the size of
a city block) was built around 132 AD with an interior court,
garden with pool and fourteen unfluted Corinthian columns at
its face. It was being reconstructed, so we could not enter
the site. It had been the depository for all of the legal documents
and laws of the time. We had seen a tablet stating the hours
open were 6a.m. - 12p.m, another said that anything could be
copied but nothing could be removed. This makes sense
because everything at that time was truly written in stone.
Just across the corner from the library is a very fine "Antiquities
and Art Shop" that is well worth a browse. Further up Panos
Street is the 1st century BC Horologian (Clock) of
Andronikos Kyrrhestes popularly known as the Tower of the Winds.
This octagonal building is in excellent condition and contained
a hydraulic clock and planetarium. Each side functioned as a
sundial and is adorned with a relief representing the wind blowing
from that specific direction.
Gyros and retsina lunch in the Plaka was very satisfying. We returned to our hotel to
relax for the evening. Around 9 p.m., we felt the need for baklava and espresso, so we
dropped into the Delphi (sinfully rich baklava) and afterwards we wandered around Sintagma
before retiring early (we have to be up by 6 a.m. tomorrow).
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