SAGANAKI - Mussels Thracian Style

3 pounds small mussels
Sea salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cinnamon stick, 2 inches long
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 tsp. freshly ground pepper
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup slivered fresh basil
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 long dried red chile pepper, about 3 inches long
2 tsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. chopped garlic
3 ounces cow's milk feta
Salt
Garlic toasts

If you are not using "farmed" mussels, scrub them, pull off the beards, and rinse in several changes of water. Put in a bowl of lightly salted cool water and let stand for at least 1 hour so they purge themselves of sand, then drain.

Heat a large nonreactive shallow pan until hot, add 1 tablespoon of the butter, and allow to sizzle. Add the cinnamon stick, mussels, and wine all at once, cover, and cook over high heat until the mussels open, about 2 minutes. If the shells are just beginning to open, leave them 1 minute longer, but do not overcook. Transfer the mussels to a bowl in order to catch their juices, strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve and reserve, discard the cinnamon stick, shell the mussels and season them with the black pepper and the lemon juice.

Wipe out the pan, add another tablespoon of the butter, and set over medium heat. Add half the basil, half the parsley, and the chile pepper stir and cook for 1 minute, add the tomato paste, reserved mussel cooking liquid, and garlic and quickly bring to a boil. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced to about 1 cup. Remove from the heat, add the mussels, and set aside to cool. If making in advance, cool, cover, and refrigerate.

About 30 minutes before serving, bring the mussels to room temperature if prepared in advance. Drain and cut the feta into small slices and dice the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Scatter the feta and butter over the mussels and slowly cook until almost boiling. Swirl to allow the butter and cheese to thicken the sauce, adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper, and lemon to taste. Serve garnished with the remaining basil, parsley and garlic toasts. Serves 4 to 6.