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TWICE-RISEN CHEESE AND HORSERADISH SOUFFLES
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour + flour for dusting
3/4 cup milk
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of black pepper
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish (not creamed-style), see Note
1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/4 cup finely grated aged cheddar
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons minced chives (optional)
3 large egg whites
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prepare four 6-ounce ramekins by coating the insides with softened butter, then dusting with flour. Make a roux by melting the butter in a saucepan and adding the flour. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until it becomes grainy, about 1 1/2 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the milk to just under a simmer and gradually whisk into the roux. Continue to cook, whisking constantly until thickened, about 3 minutes. Mix in the cayenne, nutmeg, salt, pepper and horseradish. Remove the saucepan from the heat and mix in the cheeses. Lightly beat the egg yolks and temper them by slowly whisking some of the milk/flour mixture into the egg yolks to warm them. Then add the yolks back into the rest of the milk. Mix well. Allow to cool. If using, stir in the optional minced chives.
Just prior to baking, whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Gently mix a third of the egg whites into the batter to lighten it. Fold in the remaining egg whites. Immediately portion the batter into the prepared ramekins. Wipe the rims clean so the rise is more even. Place the ramekins in a baking pan and pour boiling water into the pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 25 minutes, until the souffles are completely risen, golden brown and the center is fairly dry when a knife is inserted. Serve immediately.
Do-ahead method: Let the souffles cool on a wire rack. Unmold, cool thoroughly then wrap well and refrigerate. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the unmolded souffles in a casserole dish with about 1/8-inch heavy cream (about 1/4 cup) in the bottom of
dish. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until heated through and puffed. Serves 6
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